GearBox Oil

Dale, it’s not that controversial for gearboxes actually. I’m guessing you have one of Dan’s toploaders which, like any toploader, has brass/bronze synchro parts etc. This means you MUST use a GL4 spec oil, not a GL5 (or higher) under any circumstances. I would recommend Millers EP 80W90 GL4.  Change it every 500 miles for the first thousand or so.  Classic Oil Co at Bicester have it, or Opie etc. 

Roger

Thanks Roger great help ... all ordered along with some Fuch Titan Pro-R engine oil. I was going for the Silkolene 80w90 which say covers both GL4 & GL5 but have taken your advice and bought the Millers

Cheers D

I think that's a good idea.  I don't know whether the Silkolene would be safe - I'm inclined to think that if it's GL5 spec as well as GL4 it could cause damage to the softer metal parts in the older gearboxes.  Stick with the GL4 only.

Just for anybody's info who might be interested:  Dan's kits for toploaders are great - the easiest gearbox in the world to rebuild, the only special tool you need is a set of large v-jawed external circlip (snap ring in American) pliers.  I've never seen them in the UK but they're readily and cheaply available from the US, and pretty much essential if you plan to rebuild a toploader.  Parts for a rebuild are pretty cheap, it only gets expensive if you start to need gears as well (unusual in a toploader as they last forever).  If you can start with a Sunbeam Tiger 'box, it will fit in a Cobra with the gearstick in the right place and comes with a CR gearset (HEH-E 'box).  The Tiger box would take some work to fit an FE, though - not even sure it will.  But obviously fine behind a 260, 289 or 302, just needs a bellhousing with narrow pattern.  

Dan only takes orders over the phone, lovely bloke but if you order I wish you good luck.  You'll be doing well if you can keep the call to under the hour...

Posted by: Roger King

 

Dan only takes orders over the phone, lovely bloke but if you order I wish you good luck.  You'll be doing well if you can keep the call to under the hour...

You're right there Roger, he can speak for Gold at the Olympics about his gearboxes ... most of the chat went over my head but it's nice to talk to someone so knowledgeable and passionate about their product. It's a lovely box to use, almost selects gears itself and has a lovely 'click feel' when dropping in gear. Much much better than the Tremec I had in the Daytona

Whilst were on the subject .... Filters. The Motorcraft FL1-HP are daft money so was thinking of the K&N equivalent. Any experience of K&N's at all? Paul, I know we spoke about this sometime ago but what do you use?

D

I use Baldwin B2 filter. They’re widely recommended for Ferrari’s and as look would have it, the B2 is the same filter for the Dino as well.

I go to a local filter specialist and normally pay the extortionate price of £3 each. However, last time I bought two of then and as I didn’t have any coins, he only charged me £5 for the two. 👍🏻😁

You May recall that I’ve used Amsoil 5W30 oil in my engine and I’m pleased to report that I’m still getting 70psi at tick-over, so the lower viscosity doesn’t seem to be effecting pressure too much. The new cam sounds pretty nasty. 😈👍🏻

Paul

Posted by: Paul Blore

The new cam sounds pretty nasty. 😈👍🏻

I hope it's better round town than mine is. It's just not comfortable pottering around at 25-30. I need to keep in second for 20-25 & third for 30. Mind you it's incredible on the open road 🙂

That’s generally how I ran mine before. I have a 2.88:1 diff ratio, so the revs are just too low around town to be using 4th.

These are old school engines with a pretty unsophisticated carb,  so I don’t expect it to lug around at very low revs like a modern turbo diesel.

The cam was specified based on my typical usage i.e. fast road use, long-distance touring and occasional city/heavy traffic driving.

Paul

Posted by: Paul Blore

That’s generally how I ran mine before. I have a 2.88:1 diff ratio, so the revs are just too low around town to be using 4th.

 

Paul

Oh I didn't realise that. I thought you just ran around in 4th in town ... It's not been a problem for me, just a bit jerky until I get used to it 🙂

2.88:1 is a very long FD ratio for an old-school petrol engine.  As you say, they're not evil diesels and on prolonged light load need to be running at at least 2,000-2,500 rpm minimum.  Lower than that, and you're running on the intermediate transfer ports or even the idle circuit, and your timing won't be all in so the distributor curve will be critical (and they're not usually that accurate).  With my 3.31:1 gears I tend to be in either second or third around town to keep mixture and spark in a safe range.  3.31:1 was a typical stock ratio for the factory 427s, whereas the higher-revving 289s had 3.7 for the US market or 3.54 for Europe.  It's not high revs that kills engines (within reason), it's labouring them at low revs - steam hammer effect.

For oil filters, I use Motorcraft FL1 (or 1A), fits both Cobra and Mustang.

Posted by: Roger King

For oil filters, I use Motorcraft FL1 (or 1A), fits both Cobra and Mustang.

Mine has one of those at the moment, but they're daft money

Ah, but how much was your engine?  A good quality filter is almost more important than the oil, especially with a newly-built motor that's shedding bits of metal all over the place internally.

FL-1A are available from Summit at $3.97.  Given that I get through at least two a year, I usually buy a box of 8 or so and tie it in with a bigger order to keep the shipping down.  With a newly-built engine you should be using at least 3-4 this year.

I’m curious why you feel the need to change the oil and filter so often Roger when I’m sure they didn’t do that when they were new and we have much better oils these days.

”Shedding bits of metal all over the place” sounds rather dramatic. Where is all this metal coming from?

Paul

Mine has FL1HP fitted, they're $17 in US and between £30-£50 over here.