Hi all,
Does anybody have any top tips for removing a seized bolt from a bushing. I'm trying to replace the bolts on one of the anti-tramp bars and as luck would have it, it seems totally seized in the bushing. Its something I've been meaning to do for some time as its always been commented on during MOT as the bolt end didn't quite stand proud of the nyloc.
Youtube guidance seems to be to cut it out which is going to be far too destructive based on the requirement.
Otherwise, I hope everybody is keeping well under the circumstances and look very much forward to being able to meet up again soon.
Dave.
The Cobra Register - Founder Member
Hi Dave - is this a steel bolt into a steel sleeve in a polybush? If so, is it under any kind of tension, because that can make them seem extremely stiff? Do you have a long breaker bar? I presume you have removed the nut - is there room to get a puller on it, to pull on the anti-tramp bar housing and press the bolt out? If not you may have to use a thin hacksaw blade either side of the sleeve and then press or burn the bush out. I'd be surprised if it's that rusted in though, the car's not that old.
I'm assuming you've soaked it in PlusGas (or similar) over a period of time. Don't use WD40, it's not a penetrating oil and won't help.
The Cobra Register - Historian
Several old bangers, which used to include a 289
fbhvc.co.uk
thesahb.com
Thanks Roger.
Thats an interesting point on the WD40 as that is what I’ve been using. I’ll try to source some PlusGas or similar.
I’m able to turn the bolt though it appears to be twisting the bush with it. I’ve also tried pullers and a little brute force with the universal adjuster. I’ll put them on again today allowing some sustained force for a period of time and continue to soak.
Cheers.
Dave.
The Cobra Register - Founder Member
@woodward28
If it's a polybush the steel sleeve is probably turning in the bush as it's rusted to the bolt. Penetrating oil may only lubricate the sleeve in the polybush - another reason why I'm not fond of polybushes. With rubber they are bonded in, but just push into polybushes. You may end up having to get the hacksaw between the bar and the bracket to cut the ends off, unfortunately. After that, it's easy - and they won't be hardened steel. You just need an engineer's hacksaw handle that leaves the end of the blade sticking out.
The Cobra Register - Historian
Several old bangers, which used to include a 289
fbhvc.co.uk
thesahb.com
Hi Dave,
If you haven’t yet got it out, if think you probably have no alternative but to cut it out as Roger has suggested.
I’d also be inclined to use rubber rather than poly when you fit new ones. Poly bushes can be very harsh and transmit most of the road shocks through to the chassis. This is fine on a track car, but not really what you want on a road car.
Paul
The Cobra Register - CEO
Hi Dave,
If you haven’t yet got it out, if think you probably have no alternative but to cut it out as Roger has suggested.
I’d also be inclined to use rubber rather than poly when you fit new ones. Poly bushes can be very harsh and transmit most of the road shocks through to the chassis. This is fine on a track car, but not really what you want on a road car.
Paul
Agreed - and not good for the frame and structure of the car, either. If I was running polybush suspension I would have a strict regime of checking brackets and mounts for cracks regularly. Track cars have their suspension dismantled, checked and fettled every few weeks - road cars don't, generally.
The Cobra Register - Historian
Several old bangers, which used to include a 289
fbhvc.co.uk
thesahb.com